Добро пожаловать в Россию: Greta Goes to Russia: The Heart of Russia

Moscow. So much is conjured in the mind when one thinks of the capital city of Russia, it would be hard to write them all down. I would like to share with you my journey that starts with the midnight train from Saint Petersburg to Moscow.

The train was not as uncomfortable as I thought it would be. There were four people to a compartment and I had one of two top bunks. Due to the fact that the train left late, we stayed up until 2 am chatting; really it is only the natural thing to do, and I am sure there are others on the train who did not sleep at all. Sleep was decent, and I awoke around 7:30 the next morning to find that we were passing snow covered villages - it seemed so quintessentially Russian. We arrived around nine and despite the bad weather - a cold rain - I was happy. We were in Moscow! Right away, after stepping out of the train station, we were greeted by one of the Seven Sisters (now a hotel) built during the Stalinist era. There were supposed to be eight to symbolize eight hundred years of Moscow, but the eighth one was never built in Moscow because Stalin died. Interestingly enough, the eighth Sister was finally built - in Poland.

Ministry of Foreign Affairs (one of the Seven Sisters)

The hotel in which we stayed - Holiday Inn - was very nice and on the outskirts of the city. The room to which I was assigned had an easy number to remember: 1812. Immediately what came to mind when I heard this was the War of 1812 in which Russia defeated Napoleon. This war is known to Russians as the First Great Patriotic War, the second one of course belongs to World War II.

There was no time to lose. Following breakfast, we took a bus tour of the city - which may have been more exciting and beneficial if we had more time and if it were not raining and not foggy. On the tour, we stopped at sights such as Red Square (more on this later), Cathedral of Christ the Savior, and Sparrow Hills that overlooks the city by Moscow State University.

Moscow is very unlike Saint Petersburg. For one thing, Moscow does not have a code restricting the heights of buildings, so, therefore, there is quite a splash of buildings and because the city is so old, the taller ones tend to be built away from the center. Another thing that prevails in Moscow, at least more noticeably, is Soviet architecture. Walking around the city, I noticed many such buildings, often adorned with the hammer and sickle.

In addition, since Moscow is much older than Saint Petersburg, buildings and streets were added as the population grew whereas in Saint Petersburg, the layout is planned. Being the capital and being a megacity, Moscow surely attracts foreign tourists - and because it is a big city with a confusing layout and notorious traffic, the metro would seem the best way to get around. As far as I could tell, however, there are hardly any signs within the metro that are transliterated, nor are they marked real well in regards to particular lines - red, green, blue, etc. Thus, it might take awhile to navigate this system. On another note, Moscow Metro is said to be one of the most beautiful in the world, the prettiest ones having been built during the Stalinist era, and after seeing a few of the masterpieces myself - I would have to agree.

Moscow Metro (unfortunately I cannot remember what station this is)

Saturday, following a delicious breakfast, we left the hotel and returned to Red Square to visit something I am sure is on every tourist's list when he or she visits Moscow - the Lenin Mausoleum. In order to enter the Mausoleum, you cannot bring any sort of bag with you, so you must check in your stuff and pay them 50 rubles to watch it for you. There is a lot of hoopla surrounding the Lenin Mausoleum, it is like one continuous wake, you cannot stop to study him, your hands cannot be in your pockets, no talking, no smiling...there are soldiers in every corner and corridor watching very carefully. After leaving the Mausoleum, we had the chance to view the resting spots of other famous Russians (and one American, John Reed). The grave I found most interesting was that of Stalin. At one time, you could have found Stalin's embalmed body resting next to Lenin's, but he was removed by the orders of Nikita Khrushchev. Now that I have been to Moscow, everyone asks me (including Russians), if I have had the opportunity to view Lenin's body. I can now say that I have.

Lenin Mausoleum

Afterwards, we had time to explore on our own, and with a couple of friends, we spent time on Red Square taking pictures and getting all the "tourist" shots. Quarter to one, we met back with the group at the Aleksandr Garden where the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier is located, and prepared for the Kremlin tour. It was exciting to be able to go behind the Kremlin walls and tour the grounds despite the fact that it was far colder than forecasted. I was able to see the working residence of the President of the Russian Federation from across the well-guarded street. There were many cathedrals to be seen and the armory museum to be explored.

Red Square Krasnaya Ploshchad'

Red Square with Russian State Historical Museum

Saint Basil's Cathedral

That evening, friends and I walked around the pedestrian only Old Arbataya Street. We bought some souvenirs there - matroshka dolls depicting Russian and Soviet leaders, and a wooden magnet of Saint Basil's Cathedral.

Sunday, our final day in Moscow, was a very interesting day. After I lost track of counting all the Yuri Gagarin portraits in the Cosmonaut Museum, a group of us went to VDNKh. VDNKh or the All-Russian Exhibition Center was, during Soviet times, a place that supposedly was to highlight achievements of all the republics of the Soviet Union. It is quite large (larger than Monaco, in fact) and resembles fair grounds, which I am fairly sure is what sort of functions as now. All I can tell you is that a whole lot of strange was happening there. First, approaching the momentous statue of Lenin, who but Lady Gaga was blaring in the background. The main pavilion that sat directly behind the statue of Lenin and that was supposed to highlight the achievements, instead resembled a myriad of shop vendors and cat exhibits that looked more reminiscent of a Western style arcade in America. Behind the pavilion, a woman was dancing around on stage playing an accordion to a large crowd who seemed to just stand there - a one-woman show performing only for herself. Following the spontaneous decision to enter the Kyrgyz Pavilion by the Student Director, we stumbled upon a Kyrgyz restaurant where I am fairly certain they have never dealt with foreigners before...or even many Russians for that matter. There was a lot of staring going on. I must say, however, that the food there was quite good. While enjoying our food, they started doing Kyrgyz karaoke...I will just leave it at that.

Lenin (with Lady Gaga and Ke$ha blaring in the background)

Exhibit of Cats (middle)

Kyrgyz Restaurant

The three days I was in Moscow I visited Red Square five times, twice at night, which seemed far more impressive than when I visited it during the day. The last time I visited Red Square, the emotions finally hit me. So much has happened there - there is so much history and so much symbolism. Over the years, I have seen and read so much about Russia, especially the Kremlin and Red Square, that to be there in person had a special impact. I am not sure why it took five times for me to finally feel the history and symbolism, perhaps it was because it was the last time I would be there before I left. Perhaps it was due to the fact that I had Red Square almost all to myself, even for just a very short period of time, that caused my emotions to swell. (If you are reading this blog by email, check out my website gretainrussia.blogspot.com to view the video).

Here are pictures from the night tour: